Day 6: Cannon Beach

Today we have a long drive from Forks to Cannon Beach, blasting Nirvana as we pass through Aberdeen, the town where Kurt Cobain grew up. Around noon we stop in Astoria, crossing into Oregon. Lunch is at The Custard King, a tiny spot serving frozen custard alongside excellent burgers and fries.

Astoria is full of The Goonies movie locations, which we rewatched before leaving, so spotting them in real life is extra fun. The town also has lots of Pride flags and even a group of cheerful anti-Trump protesters. Quite a contrast to Forks.

We wander through a few shops, skip the Goonies museum (fun enough from the outside), and drive the last 45 minutes to Ecola Creek Lodge, our charming Cannon Beach hotel. From there it’s a short stroll to the beach, where we finally see the famous Haystack Rock, also featured in The Goonies. As if that weren’t cinematic enough, a wedding is happening right on the beach.

Dinner is at Public Coast Brewing Company: fish & chips, fish tacos, and a hummus platter for balance. Afterward, we drive to Ecola State Park for sunset views, where another bride is doing a photoshoot. Five minutes further is Indian Beach, where surfers are catching waves against a golden sky. Tide pools are full of starfish and anemones. The weather is amazing and sunset here is magical.

Day 7: Cannon Beach

We take it easy today. I sneak out early to photograph Haystack Rock at sunrise, then we head to Oro’s Fireside Restaurant for a cozy breakfast with top-notch service. Laundry is running back at the hotel (via an app-controlled washer/dryer, fancy!), so we do the practical stuff before heading out again.

The morning is spent browsing Cannon Beach’s shops, bookstores, and then driving up to Seaside for errands: Safeway, the Nike Outlet, and lunch at Taco Bell. Believe it or not, Taco Bell is way better than the first time we tried it 20 years ago.

Since we’re in Seaside, we go the cinema for Fantastic Four: First Steps. The theater is dated but charming in its own way. We can’t resist finally trying the famous “butter on popcorn.” They pour melted butter into the bucket, shake it, add more popcorn, and finish with another layer of butter. Messy but delicious (lots of napkins required!).

Back at Cannon Beach, we relax in front of our hotel room with coffee in the late sun. Dinner is at Tom’s Fish & Chips, followed by another evening walk along the sand. Volunteers lend us binoculars to spot puffins at Haystack Rock, but no luck this time. Still, what a place.

Day 8: Portland

We pack up and drive south toward Portland, bracing for 30°C heat. Luckily, a breeze keeps it pleasant. We check into another StayPineapple Hotel, this one more spacious and full of light than Seattle’s.

Lunch is at Raising Cane’s, a much-hyped chicken chain. The cheerful staff guides us through the menu, and we stick to our “order for two, feed three” rule. Their secret sauce is fantastic.

Our big mission in Portland is Powell’s City of Books, the world’s largest independent bookstore. The streets outside feel quiet, but inside Powell’s it’s buzzing. Our cart fills up fast with both new and used books. With now heavier bags, we wander along the riverwalk, spotting the neon sign near the bridge.

Portland has even more visible homelessness than Seattle, which is sobering. After resting at the hotel, we head out again for dinner at Mucca Pizzeria. Fantastic pizza, fantastic service. We end the evening walking across the bridge and back, taking in the city views.

Day 9: Columbia River Gorge

We start the day with sandwiches and drive 20 minutes to an outlet mall, where we park the car and hop on the Sasquatch Shuttle to Multnomah Falls. For $5 each, it’s a steal, especially since parking costs $20 and spots are impossible to find.

The falls are stunning, and we hike further to smaller nearby waterfalls. The trail is tough but rewarding. I climb a little further to a viewpoint, while Karen and Juul hang out with some very friendly squirrels. By the time we return, the place is swarming with visitors, so glad we came early.

Back in Portland we have lunch at Maya’s Taqueria (that wet burrito, yum!), followed by a sugar high at Voodoo Doughnut. A security guard regulates the (tiny) flow of people, which seems to be a thing in Portland. We carry our doughnuts over to Stumptown Coffee Roasters, which has a guard at the door too.

After a rest, we grab our hotel bikes and cross the bridge to Back to the Basket, a basketball shop filled with vintage finds. Juul scores a jersey and jacket, I pick up a vintage Knicks pennant. And at a bookstore, Juul buys a signed copy of a book she wanted. Dinner is at Cartopia, a food cart pod, where we share pizza and spicy moussaka. On the way back, Karen’s bike gets a flat. Thankfully, the hotel refunds $28 for the hassle, super kind!