From The Redwoods to Lassen Volcanic NP, Lake Tahoe & San Francisco ✶ JPKOUDSTAAL.COM

Day 15: Redwoods National & State Parks

Today we cross into California! After a quick roadside breakfast, the first giant trees appear, and soon we’re bouncing along a narrow unpaved road into the Redwoods.

Our first hike takes us into the Grove of Titans. The trees are impossibly tall and beautiful. Back on the road, we suddenly spot a herd of elk before arriving at Trees of Mystery, a quirky roadside attraction with a towering statue of lumberjack Paul Bunyan and his blue ox, Babe. We don’t go in to the attraction, but the gift shop is fun.

After another drive, we walk the Lady Bird Johnson Trail, an easy 45-minute loop through old growth forest. From there, it’s another hour and a half drive to our Best Western hotel. The room is spacious but… not quiet. Our neighbor’s loud, wheezy cough becomes the soundtrack to the evening. Dinner is at Eel River Brewing Company, where we wait almost an hour for mediocre food. To top it off, California sales tax gives us a small shock after tax-free Oregon.

Day 16: Redwoods National & State Parks

Breakfast at the hotel is DIY waffles, pancakes, and fruit: easy and filling. Today we drive the famous Avenue of the Giants, a scenic route winding between colossal redwoods. Around the Founders Tree, we see how massive the fallen trunks are.

The Visitor Center is one of the good ones: packed with history, photos, and props explaining the redwoods’ scale and age. We also see The Travel Log, a unique camper from 1917, made from a hollowed-out redwood. Charles (The Nature Singer) Kellogg built this camper to raise awareness for the protection of California's forests. After coffee on the terrace, we continue south to Confusion Hill, a mysterious roadside stop with a “Gravity House” where everything tilts the wrong way. Fun fact: it inspired the cartoon Gravity Falls, which Juul knows well.

Back at the hotel, we have the pool and jacuzzi entirely to ourselves. Dinner is a highlight: we go to In-N-Out Burger in Eureka. I order the animal style double double from the “secret menu”, yes, it’s worth the hype.

Day 17: Shingletown

After we leave for our next stop, a landslide blocks our road east, so we have to reroute. It adds an extra hour and a half, but the drive takes us through forests, valleys, and rivers.

After three and a half hours, we stop at a café by the river, hummingbirds buzzing around the terrace. Lunch is at Denny’s in Redding, mostly for nostalgic reasons, it was a favorite of ours back in 2004. Karen enjoys it, I’m less convinced.

By late afternoon we reach our B&B in Shingletown, tucked among the trees. The hostess and her dog greet us warmly and we settle into a family room with a veranda.

Day 18: Lassen Volcanic National Park

Sleeping was meh, the house is noisy and the bed far too soft. But breakfast, freshly made by our host, was yum: omelets with fresh fruit.

It’s a short drive into Lassen Volcanic National Park, one of the few places in the world where you can see all four types of volcanoes. We circle Manzanita Lake, admire the Devastated Area boulders, and stop at Lake Helen, a turquoise beauty surrounded by peaks.

At Sulphur Works, steam hisses from pools right beside the road, filling the air with that classic rotten-egg smell. Lunch is at the Visitor Center café, where we also explore an interactive exhibit and watch a film on the park’s volcanic history.

Dinner in Shingletown offers not much choice, but Pioneer Hillside Pizza is perfectly fine.

Day 15: Redwoods National & State Parks

Today we cross into California! After a quick roadside breakfast, the first giant trees appear, and soon we’re bouncing along a narrow unpaved road into the Redwoods.

Our first hike takes us into the Grove of Titans. The trees are impossibly tall and beautiful. Back on the road, we suddenly spot a herd of elk before arriving at Trees of Mystery, a quirky roadside attraction with a towering statue of lumberjack Paul Bunyan and his blue ox, Babe. We don’t go in to the attraction, but the gift shop is fun.

After another drive, we walk the Lady Bird Johnson Trail, an easy 45-minute loop through old growth forest. From there, it’s another hour and a half drive to our Best Western hotel. The room is spacious but… not quiet. Our neighbor’s loud, wheezy cough becomes the soundtrack to the evening. Dinner is at Eel River Brewing Company, where we wait almost an hour for mediocre food. To top it off, California sales tax gives us a small shock after tax-free Oregon.

Day 16: Redwoods National & State Parks

Breakfast at the hotel is DIY waffles, pancakes, and fruit: easy and filling. Today we drive the famous Avenue of the Giants, a scenic route winding between colossal redwoods. Around the Founders Tree, we see how massive the fallen trunks are.

The Visitor Center is one of the good ones: packed with history, photos, and props explaining the redwoods’ scale and age. We also see The Travel Log, a unique camper from 1917, made from a hollowed-out redwood. Charles (The Nature Singer) Kellogg built this camper to raise awareness for the protection of California's forests. After coffee on the terrace, we continue south to Confusion Hill, a mysterious roadside stop with a “Gravity House” where everything tilts the wrong way. Fun fact: it inspired the cartoon Gravity Falls, which Juul knows well.

Back at the hotel, we have the pool and jacuzzi entirely to ourselves. Dinner is a highlight: we go to In-N-Out Burger in Eureka. I order the animal style double double from the “secret menu”, yes, it’s worth the hype.

Day 17: Shingletown

After we leave for our next stop, a landslide blocks our road east, so we have to reroute. It adds an extra hour and a half, but the drive takes us through forests, valleys, and rivers.

After three and a half hours, we stop at a café by the river, hummingbirds buzzing around the terrace. Lunch is at Denny’s in Redding, mostly for nostalgic reasons, it was a favorite of ours back in 2004. Karen enjoys it, I’m less convinced.

By late afternoon we reach our B&B in Shingletown, tucked among the trees. The hostess and her dog greet us warmly and we settle into a family room with a veranda.

Day 18: Lassen Volcanic National Park

Sleeping was meh, the house is noisy and the bed far too soft. But breakfast, freshly made by our host, was yum: omelets with fresh fruit.

It’s a short drive into Lassen Volcanic National Park, one of the few places in the world where you can see all four types of volcanoes. We circle Manzanita Lake, admire the Devastated Area boulders, and stop at Lake Helen, a turquoise beauty surrounded by peaks.

At Sulphur Works, steam hisses from pools right beside the road, filling the air with that classic rotten-egg smell. Lunch is at the Visitor Center café, where we also explore an interactive exhibit and watch a film on the park’s volcanic history.

Dinner in Shingletown offers not much choice, but Pioneer Hillside Pizza is perfectly fine.

Day 19: Lake Tahoe

After breakfast we set off on a three-and-a-half-hour drive that takes us through Nevada, before looping back into California at South Lake Tahoe. The town is quite busy with hotels and restaurants, but our cozy stop, the Fireside Lodge, sits just beyond the bustle.

The owner gives us a warm welcome and a tour where we smell the trees. The room is decorated with vintage skis and sleds, and the place is packed with thoughtful extras: free bikes, a game room, and even happy hour snacks.

We borrow the beach cruisers and bike to Pope Beach and Baldwin Beach. Back at the lodge, happy hour means wine, lemonade, cheese, and crackers. Dinner is at South Lake Brewing, where the lodge owner’s recommendation – the Korean chicken burger – does not disappoint.

The evening ends at the lodge with ping-pong, cornhole, and playing arcade games.

Day 20: Lake Tahoe

A hearty breakfast (coffee and waffles) prepares us for a hike at Emerald Bay. Parking is nearly impossible, but we eventually find a spot and walk to the trailhead. Rangers check our permits before we set off toward Eagle Lake.

“Easy hike” is relative and the altitude makes every step a bit harder, but after 45 minutes we reach the sparkling alpine lake. Some brave swimmers dive in, we just admire the sights. The descent (and walk up hill to the car) is tough on the knees, but the views make up for it.

Lunch at Chico’s Burger restores us, and the afternoon is spent chilling back at the lodge. Dinner is followed by s’mores around the fire pit, swapping stories with other guests.

Day 21: Lake Tahoe

We get an early start and head to Sugar Pine Point Beach, despite Google Maps insisting it might be closed (it’s not). A ranger waves us through after we pay the $10 parking fee.

The park is pretty and the beach still quiet. The water is icy, but that doesn’t stop JP and Juul from jumping off the pier. By late morning it fills up with families, kayakers, and paddleboarders, so we leave, but not before we have some ice cream of course.

Lunch is at Ernie’s Coffee House, then we retreat to the hotel for a hot afternoon of Slurpees, Twinkies (Juul’s pick), and a round of mini golf. Dinner is at Big Daddy’s Burgers, and back at the lodge we wrap up the evening with cornhole, ping-pong, and a final round of firepit s’mores.

Day 19: Lake Tahoe

After breakfast we set off on a three-and-a-half-hour drive that takes us through Nevada, before looping back into California at South Lake Tahoe. The town is quite busy with hotels and restaurants, but our cozy stop, the Fireside Lodge, sits just beyond the bustle.

The owner gives us a warm welcome and a tour where we smell the trees. The room is decorated with vintage skis and sleds, and the place is packed with thoughtful extras: free bikes, a game room, and even happy hour snacks.

We borrow the beach cruisers and bike to Pope Beach and Baldwin Beach. Back at the lodge, happy hour means wine, lemonade, cheese, and crackers. Dinner is at South Lake Brewing, where the lodge owner’s recommendation – the Korean chicken burger – does not disappoint.

The evening ends at the lodge with ping-pong, cornhole, and playing arcade games.

Day 20: Lake Tahoe

A hearty breakfast (coffee and waffles) prepares us for a hike at Emerald Bay. Parking is nearly impossible, but we eventually find a spot and walk to the trailhead. Rangers check our permits before we set off toward Eagle Lake.

“Easy hike” is relative and the altitude makes every step a bit harder, but after 45 minutes we reach the sparkling alpine lake. Some brave swimmers dive in, we just admire the sights. The descent (and walk up hill to the car) is tough on the knees, but the views make up for it.

Lunch at Chico’s Burger restores us, and the afternoon is spent chilling back at the lodge. Dinner is followed by s’mores around the fire pit, swapping stories with other guests.

Day 21: Lake Tahoe

We get an early start and head to Sugar Pine Point Beach, despite Google Maps insisting it might be closed (it’s not). A ranger waves us through after we pay the $10 parking fee.

The park is pretty and the beach still quiet. The water is icy, but that doesn’t stop JP and Juul from jumping off the pier. By late morning it fills up with families, kayakers, and paddleboarders, so we leave, but not before we have some ice cream of course.

Lunch is at Ernie’s Coffee House, then we retreat to the hotel for a hot afternoon of Slurpees, Twinkies (Juul’s pick), and a round of mini golf. Dinner is at Big Daddy’s Burgers, and back at the lodge we wrap up the evening with cornhole, ping-pong, and a final round of firepit s’mores.

Day 22: San Francisco

Time to leave the mountains. After one last Fireside Lodge breakfast, we drive three and a half hours (plus a traffic jam) into the Bay Area, stopping for lunch at Chick-fil-A and a quick photo outside Pixar HQ.

We drop the rental car and Uber to Hotel del Sol in San Francisco. From there, we stroll to Fort Mason with misty views of the Golden Gate Bridge, quite a temperature drop from Tahoe’s 30°C to a windy 19°C.

Walking along the waterfront, we pass Fisherman’s Wharf and the famous Pier 39, where the sea lions great us. It’s crowded as expected around the street performers, restaurants and shops. After browsing and a Patagonia stop, we rest at the hotel before dinner at Tacko close by.

Day 23: San Francisco

Bikes today! We rent two e-bikes and one city bike (I need the work-out), and go coasting to the waterfront. Carl (the fog) makes his dramatic entrance over the Golden Gate Bridge, then drifts away, giving us a clear view of this iconic landmark.

We ride to Lucasfilm Campus, where a Yoda fountain guards the entrance. Inside, the lobby is full of Star Wars props and awards. Then it’s on to Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, ranked #2 in the U.S. and #6 in the world. Prices sting ($29 for a Margherita), but the quality is good.

Next stop: Chinatown, where Juul insists we visit the fortune cookie factory mentioned in her book series. We watch cookies being folded and sample them fresh. From there we cycle to Union Square, browse shops, and refuel with cheesecake at the Cheesecake Factory (Oreo cheesecake is a hit).

One last stop at Pier 39 to grab a Warriors basketball jersey for me, then we ride back to return the bikes. Dinner is at Shake Shack, followed by tea at the hotel. Tomorrow it’s time to head home to Suus.

Day 22: San Francisco

Time to leave the mountains. After one last Fireside Lodge breakfast, we drive three and a half hours (plus a traffic jam) into the Bay Area, stopping for lunch at Chick-fil-A and a quick photo outside Pixar HQ.

We drop the rental car and Uber to Hotel del Sol in San Francisco. From there, we stroll to Fort Mason with misty views of the Golden Gate Bridge, quite a temperature drop from Tahoe’s 30°C to a windy 19°C.

Walking along the waterfront, we pass Fisherman’s Wharf and the famous Pier 39, where the sea lions great us. It’s crowded as expected around the street performers, restaurants and shops. After browsing and a Patagonia stop, we rest at the hotel before dinner at Tacko close by.

Day 23: San Francisco

Bikes today! We rent two e-bikes and one city bike (I need the work-out), and go coasting to the waterfront. Carl (the fog) makes his dramatic entrance over the Golden Gate Bridge, then drifts away, giving us a clear view of this iconic landmark.

We ride to Lucasfilm Campus, where a Yoda fountain guards the entrance. Inside, the lobby is full of Star Wars props and awards. Then it’s on to Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, ranked #2 in the U.S. and #6 in the world. Prices sting ($29 for a Margherita), but the quality is good.

Next stop: Chinatown, where Juul insists we visit the fortune cookie factory mentioned in her book series. We watch cookies being folded and sample them fresh. From there we cycle to Union Square, browse shops, and refuel with cheesecake at the Cheesecake Factory (Oreo cheesecake is a hit).

One last stop at Pier 39 to grab a Warriors basketball jersey for me, then we ride back to return the bikes. Dinner is at Shake Shack, followed by tea at the hotel. Tomorrow it’s time to head home to Suus.